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Jess Lea-Wilson’s guide to the food of Ynys Môn and North Wales

25 November  2024   •   Written By Jess Lea-Wilson

Sunset at the Llanddwyn island lighthouse, Twr Mawr at Ynys Llanddwyn on Anglesey, North Wales, by Robert Thorley

I live on Ynys Môn, the wild Welsh island of Anglesey, and work for my family’s business, Halen Môn sea salt. After more than 15 years living in England, I have returned home. The Welsh word of ‘hiraeth’ is often quoted, perhaps because it’s true. A kind of longing, nostalgia, homesickness, brought me back.

The island and its surrounds in my mind are standout in two things: beautiful landscapes and amazing produce. Ynys Môn is characterized by its rugged coastline, endless dunes, enchanting wildlife, long stretches of open beaches, and the very best raw ingredients. Creamy golden milk from happy cows makes it into local cheese like Caws Rhyd y Delyn. Gleaming crystals of Halen Môn sea salt are harvested by hand and delivered to cooks worldwide. North Wales has the crispest apples and the crispest beer, the richest biscuits with legends at their core, and plenty of beautiful ceramics to eat and drink everything from too.

You have to visit to get a proper sense of the deliciousness of course. A well-seasoned picnic in a hidden cove. A late Friday night supper at a local specialty cheese shop, or a pizza eaten hungrily beside the waves after a bracing dip. Any drive in the area will offer stops for free-range eggs or golden honey, with honesty boxes at the end of drives. But plenty of the places below offer online delivery so you can enjoy the fruits of our labours far further afield, too.

Halen Môn - we are famous for our sea salt, which we send to famed restaurants and discerning homecooks in more than twenty countries around the world. Hand-harvested from the clear waters of the Menai Strait, and awarded Protected Status of Origin, the same status as Champagne or Parma Ham. Nowadays we offer many more delicious condiments, from an Oak Smoked Water to a Black Garlic Ketchup. Join us for a Behind the Scenes tour to find out how we make our sea salt, or order online (we ship worldwide)

Aberffraw biscuits - The oldest biscuit recipe in the UK is from right here on Ynys Môn, Aberffraw to be exact. There are a couple of possible origin stories, my favourite is the legend that a Welsh king was holding court in Aberffraw – his wife was walking on the beach there and, spotting a pretty scallop shell, asked for a cake to be baked in the same beautiful shape. James and Natasha are making the same classic shortbread today, though they are pressed into molds not shells, and you’ll find their smart black boxes in plenty of outlets on the island, as well as online.

Pant Du - a vineyard and orchard, on the slopes of the Nantlle Valley, Eryri (Snowdonia). Their cider is absolutely delicious, and worth going to visit for alone, but the breathtaking views of Yr Wyddfa and the surrounding mountains, as well as spectacular views of the sea across Caernarfon Bay, Pant Du is an idyllic location.

Anglesey rum co - with bottles so pretty you’ll want to keep them, this artisan rum is made from premium pure cane molasses. This is left to ferment with pure Welsh Water and yeast for around 7 days, then run through a 300litre pot still. They’ve just started doing distillery tours, which I look forward to going to.

Guillemot pottery - Having grown up with the dramatic landscapes of North Wales, much of Lillemor's inspiration for ceramic form, texture and colour comes from the natural world. She makes beautiful ceramics with coastal inspired glazes. You can visit her studio by appointment, or find her work at many spots on Ynys Môn (including Halen Môn!)

Caws Rhyd y Delyn - The pedigree Holstein Friesian cows are all bred on the farm and graze on lush grass pasture during the spring and summer months. Their milk travels just 30 metres to the farm’s small modern dairy where the cheese is created. All made with totally natural ingredients, including Halen Môn, which is used in Mon Las – a firm and rich blue cheese.

Maggie’s African Twist - famed for her lively chilli sauces that will bring a kick to anyone’s cooking. Maggie does all sorts of mentoring too, so you know your purchase will support her important work in other areas. Delicious and do-good.

Cwrw Llyn - ‘Cwrw Llŷn’ means ‘Llŷn Beer’ and these beers are inspired by the people, places and things the makers love most about this beautiful corner of North Wales. That includes great friendships, wonderful local food, our many local legends and, of course, our exhilarating land and seascapes. Try their Pilsner - so crisp and delicious. In the summer, they have food trucks parked outside their brewery, too.

Jess Lea-Wilson

Written By Jess Lea-Wilson

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